Swiss climber, Robert Schaeli is the second climber to redpoint, La vida es silbar (7c), on the infamous North Face of the Eiger. This 900m, 27-pitch exposed route is on the longest and most vertical pillar of the wall.
First opened in 1999, by Daniel Anker and Stephan Siegrist, La Vida es Silbar was freed in 2003, by Siegrist and Ueli Steck. The route begins at the Stollenloch and goes straight up the Rote Fluh and Czech Pillar. The climb is constantly demanding, varied and enduring, involving numerous slippery slabs, difficult blocks and athletic moves.
Schaeli was accompanied on the climb by Mayan Smith-Gobat, from New Zealand. Mayan is one of the strongest big wall free-climbers in the world of climbing. She was also on the point of redpointing the route and, in fact, climbed the whole route except for just a few moves. This may well have been due to her recent recovery after an operation to her shoulder, some months ago. In Schaeli’s words Maya is a very elegant and safe climber. In my opinion, this was the best ever female climb on the Eiger North Face.
“La Vida es Silbar” was considered to be the most difficult alpine route on the North Face of the Eiger, until “Paciencia” (8a) was established. In 2015, the grade was pushed even higher when Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gitel redpointed “Odyssee”, 8a+.
La vida es silbar, 27 pitches, 900m
North Face of the Eiger, Switzerland
1st climbed in 1999: Daniel Anker, Stephan Siegrist
1st free ascent in 2003 : Stephan Siegrist, Ueli Steck
